Fabric Pieces

After cutting your fabric, you should have the following pieces:

• 2 front 1 pieces cut on a fold (1 shell, 1 lining)
• 2 front 2 pieces cut on a fold (1 shell, 1 lining)
• 2 front 3 pieces cut on a fold (1 shell, 1 lining)
• 4 back 1 pieces (1 shell, 1 lining)
• 4 back 2 pieces (1 shell, 1 lining)
• 2 eyelet interfacing pieces
• 2 lace modesty panels cut on a fold (1 shell, 1 lining)

Stitches

Preferred stitches: Stretch stitch, zigzag stitch, or serger overlock stitch. You can use a straight stitch only on non-stretch areas.

STEP 1

Gather the shell front 1 and front 2 pieces. Position them so the notches match up. Sew them together with the right sides facing each other using a stretch stitch, zigzag stitch, or serger.

STEP 2

Gather the shell front 3 piece and the assembled front 1/2 piece. Position them so the notches match up. Sew them together with the right sides facing each other using a stretch stitch, zigzag stitch, or serger.

STEP 3

This completes the entire front panel for the shell fabric.

STEP 4

Gather the back 1 piece and the fusible interfacing. Line up the interfacing on top of the wrong side of the shell fabric, with the sticky side down, then press with an iron to fuse the interfacing to the fabric.

STEP 5

Snip the seam allowance slightly less than 0.5 inches on the center back seam notch, right below the interfacing.

STEP 6

Stack the 2 back 1 pieces with the right sides facing each other and sew them together along the straight line below the interfacing using a stretch stitch, zigzag stitch, or serger.

STEP 7

Gather your back 2 pieces and sew them to the back 1 pieces, with the right sides facing each other using a stretch stitch, zigzag stitch, or serger.

STEP 8

With the back panel wrong side up, flip the seam allowance so they point towards the sides, then sew the seam allowance all the way down, leaving enough room to insert the boning into the tunnels.

STEP 9

Sew a horizontal stitch at the notch, over the seam tunnels to prevent the boning from going past the buttocks.

STEP 10

Measure and cut the boning, smoothing out the edges to prevent fabric tears. The boning should be 0.5-0.75 inches shorter than the height of the tunnel to allow for hemming at the top.

STEP 11

Insert the boning into the tunnels.

STEP 12

Sew a horizontal stitch at the top of the boning, over the seam tunnels, leaving room for the seam allowance.

STEP 13

Repeat the previous steps for the front and back lining panels, without adding interfacing or boning.

STEP 14

Stack the shell and lining front panels, with the right sides facing each other, and sew them together along the top edge using a stretch stitch, zigzag stitch, or serger.

STEP 15

Flip the front pieces so the right sides are facing out, and pin the sides to hold them in place.

STEP 16

Stack the shell and lining back panels, with the right sides facing each other, and sew them together along the top edge using a stretch stitch, zigzag stitch, or serger. Sew them together along the center back angles near the interfacing using a straight stitch.

STEP 17

Flip the back panel right side out and pin the shell and lining sides in place. Then, following the line guides, sew 3 rows of straight stitches over the interfacing.

STEP 18

Install eyelets over the eyelet guides.

STEP 19

Insert boning into the 2 tunnels around each row of eyelets between the back shell and lining fabric.

STEP 20

Top stitch a horizontal stitch right below the boning at the guide to hold the boning in place.

STEP 21

Stack the shell and lining of the lace modesty panel, with the right sides facing each other, and sew them together around the top, one side, and bottom. Leave the other side open to flip the panel right side out. You can then serge the unseen edge but do not trim or cut off the seam allowance.

STEP 22

Position the modesty panel behind the back piece and sew it to one side only, following the straight stitch seams on the side of the eyelets. You might need to use a zipper foot to avoid sewing over the boning.

STEP 23

Gather the front and back pieces, stacking them together with the shell sides facing each other. Serge them together along the side seams or use a stretch or zigzag stitch.

STEP 24

Sew the front and back fabrics together at the crotch. You can sew the shell fabrics together first, then the lining, so the seam allowance will stay inside the garment.

STEP 25

Hem the leg holes by folding over the seam allowance of the shell and lining fabric to the wrong side of the undergarment. You can also sew elastics to the leg holes if you wish.

STEP 26

Lace up the back and your undergarment is complete!