Step 1: Cutting Your Fabric

Begin by cutting out your fabric pieces. You should have the following:

• Front Body (#1): Cut 2 from the shell fabric and 2 from the lining.
• Front Shoulder (#2): Cut 2 from the shell fabric and 2 from the lining.
• Back Body (#3): Cut 2 from the shell fabric and 2 from the lining.
• Back Shoulder (#4): Cut 2 from the shell fabric and 2 from the lining.
• Shoulder Side (#5): Cut 2 from the shell fabric and 2 from the lining.

If using interfacing, fuse it to the wrong side of the shell fabric after cutting your pieces, before continuing with assembly.

Step 2: Assembling the Back Sides

Take the Back Body (#2) and Back Shoulder (#4) pieces from the shell fabric. Align them with right sides facing each other and match the notches. Pin in place.

Sew along the seam using a 0.5” seam allowance with a straight stitch.

After sewing, press the seams open on the wrong side. Then, topstitch along both sides of the seam to create two tunnels, ensuring there is enough space to insert the boning.

Step 3: Assembling the Back Shell

Next, place both back sections right sides together and sew along the center back seam. Press the seam open and topstitch on both sides to create additional boning channels.

Step 4: Assembling the Front Sides

Repeat the same steps as the back for the Front Body (#1), but stop sewing at the dart—this will be the opening for the arms. Press the seams open and topstitch along both sides to secure them and create boning channels.

Step 5: Attaching the Shoulder Sides

Take the Shoulder Side (#5) pieces and pin them along the top curve of the front shoulder, aligning the notches.

• Ensure the right sides of the fabric are facing each other.
• Pin in place and sew with a 0.5” seam allowance using a straight stitch.
• Press the seams open and topstitch along both sides to secure them.

Repeat this process for both sides of the front.

Step 6: Attaching the Shoulder Sides to the Back

Similarly for the back, match the shoulder sides to the back shoulders, aligning the notches. Sew them together, then press the seams open and topstitch.

Step 7: Installing the Zipper

Attach the separating zipper to the center front seams.

• Ensure the zipper is unzipped and the teeth are facing away from the center front.
• The right side of the zipper should be facing the right side of the front shell fabric.
• Sew the zipper down along the center front seam.

Step 8: Preparing and Inserting Boning

Use plastic boning for structure. Cut each piece to be 1-2 inches shorter than the total length of the seam.

• Each seam will require two pieces of boning—one on each side.
• Round out the boning ends to prevent damage to the fabric. You can:
  • Burn the edges slightly
  • File them smooth
  • Cover the ends with fabric
• Insert the boning into the boning channels created in the shell fabric seams.

Step 9: Preparing the Lining

Sew the lining pieces together following the same construction steps as the shell. However:

• Do not press the seams open or topstitch them.
• Do not add boning to the lining.

Then layer the lining over the shell, right sides facing each other.

Step 10: Sewing the Lining to the Shell

Attach the lining to the shell, ensuring the zipper is sandwiched between them.

• Sew along the center front, neckline, front armholes, and front bottom edge.
• Do not sew the back bottom yet—leave a gap to flip the garment right side out.

Once flipped right side out, sew and hem the back bottom to close the gap.

If desired, topstitch along the finished edges for a polished look. Your garment is now complete!